Twas ever thus
Shane Golden, Manager of Whelehans Wines
“The sun shone, having no alternative, on the nothing new”, Samuel Beckett, Murphy
First the bad news.
In Arnold Böcklin’s painting “Isle of the dead” we see a figure shrouded in white, accompanied almost certainly by a coffin, being oared towards their probable interment on a lone retreat.
No description here could convey its funereal atmosphere so I’d urge you to seek it out before progressing. Done? Good. This sets the scene for how many working in the wine industry feel, advancing cautiously on the year ahead.
I write this at the tail end of Dry January. Sitting around the fire with the family watching “It’s a good life” is a distant memory and now everything has gone all “BladeRunner” on us. In truth, this has been one of the more difficult pieces I’ve had to write and started much earlier in January than I’d like to admit. As if America deciding to vote analog in a digital world wasn’t bad enough, a casual perusal of the wine press gives little pause to cheer. The problems facing the industry are myriad, complex. End of year reviews have given way to predictions for the year ahead. Doomsayers are in their pomp and we are all haunted by their futures.
Why do I say this? Let me count the ways.
Wine production is falling, reflecting the increased strain on farming through more intense and unpredictable weather patterns. Throw in the general cost of living crisis and you have all the ingredients of a perfect storm.
Lower crop yields mean that prices go up. Many feel that a consumer-friendly price correction is coming but very few green shoots here to speak of.
Grubbing up is up, affecting everyone from the well-heeled to the downtrodden.
Steadily Increasing alcohol levels have contributed to people drinking and enjoying less.
The general lack of affordability in restaurants, a gateway for many new drinkers, is now keeping people out.
Also, expect to hear a lot more of the Neo-Prohibitionist movement this year.
As if all that wasn’t enough, put-upon wine writers now have to contend with the blurred lines between original and AI-generated content. Does your author dream of electric sheep?
This approximation of the House of Wine may read Dickensian but character is forged in adversity.
So is there anything positive we can hang our hats on?
Well yes, plenty in the form of lesser known varieties. The relatively few International varietals out there (e.g Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir) creates its own central point of failure. The world doesn’t need another Bordeaux-style blend.
More and more research is going into indigenous, lesser known varieties. Grapes that have survived the test of time and as such have a head start in the battle against climate change. Xinomavro from Greece and Nerello Mascalese from Sicily, both with relatively lower ABVs are two favorites.
Organic farming practices continue to rise producing wines of more purity and character. A biodynamic and naturally farmed wine from Bordeaux, that bastion of conservatism, was one of my most memorable wines of the year.
All the best wines of the world seem to have one thing in common, they produce their best when under stress. We may look forward to a sterling vintage.
Wine of the Month
Caruso & Minini ‘ Terre di Giumarav ‘ 2021
Tasting Notes: Intensely red-fruited with low tannins and a distinct gravelled minerality with a touch of Frappato spice. Nerello Mascalese rarely disappoints and more premium versions are held in very high regard by Italians. Well balanced, light and easy drinking. More than a hint of red Burgundy here
Grape: Nerello Mascalese, Frappato
Region: Sicily
ABV: 13.5%
Ageing: 30% aged in 500L barrels for 4 months, while the rest aged in stainless steel tanks for 8 months.
Certified Organic
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